Sanoppa mistä liikkeestä nuita saa, käyn heti hakemassa tuollaisen:seko:
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Sanoppa mistä liikkeestä nuita saa, käyn heti hakemassa tuollaisen:seko:
Mulle kans semmonen. Mistä saa noutaa?
Jos se 6 asteen valokeila on liian kapea, siihenhän vois vaikka koittaa sovittaa jotain pientä ledin päälle suunniteltua diffuusoriläpyskää alareunaan hiukan valoa hajottamaan.
On varmaankin kokonaisuutena parempi kuin vaikka taivaan tuuliin valoa heittävä leveämpi valokeila.
Seuraavana projektina noiden ledien jälkeen ajattelin herätellä henkiin noita halogeenivaloja.
Nimittäin sattui silmään Osramin IRC- sarja, jossa 20 Wattisesta sanotaan tulevan saman verran valoa kuin tavallisesta 35 wattisesta. Salaisuus kai piilee jossain IR-heijastavassa pinnoitteessa lampun sisällä, kait ok kun kerran väitetään toimivan.
http://www.schymik.de/Transalp/Lampen/IRC.htm
Onko kukaan testaillut jo fillarikäytössä ?
Tuohon kun vielä lykkää pientä ylijännitettä (esim 11-kennoisen NIMH-akun), niin voisi tulla ihan kiva peli. Polttimon käyttöaika lyhenee, mutta tuskin merkittävästi.
Testiraporttia pukkaa kunhan saan jostain hankittua noita polttimoita.
Ite oon käytelly noita IRC-polttimoja 13V jännitteellä tuollaisen Light Brain Twin Plus Controllerin kanssa. Ostin ekaks näitä polttimoita Suomesta törkeään, yli 10 euron kappalehintaan. Myöhemmin tilasin sitten enemmän Saksasta 4,20 euron kappalehintaan (13 € postikulut, kauppana Licht-bob).
Vertailua muitten valmistajien polttimoihin en voi valitettavasti tehdä. Olen ehtinyt testata vain 20W 10-asteen ja 35W 24-asteen polttimoita, joista 10-asteinen oli ehkä yksinään hiukan kapeakeilainen. 24-asteen 35W polttimo oli taas jo yksinään enemmän kuin riittävä ja valaisi melko laajan alueen. Saksalaisten foorumilta löytyy paljon käyttökokemuksia ja hehkutusta.
Tässä on vielä yksi hyvä projekti, jossa on käytetty IRC-polttimoita: http://www.nightbiken.de. Tein tuon projektin perusteella vastaavanlaisen Li-Ion-akun Roseversandin työkalupulloon. Kunhan sitten jaksan vielä viimeistellä hiukan nykyistä paremman kiinnikkeen kypärään, niin saan siihen 20W+35W IRC:t, yhden nykyisen 35W:n sijaan. Ja tuolla em. kontrollerilla lamppujen ohjaus onnistuu tuplana erinomaisesti. Ja jos jaksan vielä tehdä toisen vastaavanlaisen Li-Ion-pulloakun jäljellä olevista kennoista, niin saisin ohjaustangolle myös vastaavan setupin, jolloin valojen kokonaisteho olisi yli 110W :)
Testirapparia pukkaa. Ensimmäinen kunnon ajolenkki HammerStar valolla suoritettu.
Huomioita:
Lampun kiinnitykseen tarttee kehittää jokin tapa varmentaa että lamppu ei "pyöri" tangon ympäri. Muutamaan kertaan joutu lampun nokkkaa nostelemaan ylöspäin.
Samaisen uuden kiinnitys patentin olisi hyvä huomioida että ohjaintanko ei ole suora kiinnityskohdassa. Lopputuloksena valokuvio on "vinossa"
Akun kiinnitys remeli joutuu myös tarkastelun alle. Nykyinen kärsii hieman kiinnityksen aikaisesta työergonomian vajavaisuudesta. On kohtuuton vaatimus että akkua asentamaan löytyy kolme kätinen asentaja :eek:
Käyttökytkimien sijainti lampun perässä on ergonomialtaan huono. Jonkin sortin käyttökytkimien siirto lähemmäksi kättä on paikallaan.
Valoteho ja kuvio on erinomainen, niihin ei tule varmaankaan muutoksia tule.
Akkukesto testiä lenkistä ei tullut lyhyytensä vuoksi.
Lampun ulkonäköä voisi hieman fiksailla. Esim jonkin sortin muovikuori voisi olla paikallaan.
Mutta tälläkin konffiksella tää on ihan Happy, Happy, Joy, Joy :D
Thank you very much for linking my website. but what do you say about it? i'm sorry, but i don't speak finish.Lainaus:
Alkujaan tämän lähetti Seagull
and how dow you know about my website, so far away? ;)
Hi,Lainaus:
Alkujaan tämän lähetti tobbi KLEIN
it was asked whether someone had used these IRC-halogens in a bicycle lightning project, and I referred to your project as a good example in which these halogens have been used. I also pointed out that your project has excellent instructions for assembling a custom Li-Ion pack in one of these "tool bottles" from Roseversand. I've build one myself with your help and am very satisfied with the result, so thanks a lot! Particularly the details and documentation of your project make it stand out from other DIY light projects. I think I found your homepage with the help of google, or then I saw a link at "IBC-forum", so it was not very hard finding it :-)
thanks a lot! :)
http://www-users.rwth-aachen.de/Tobi...pe/luxilus.jpg
my aim was, to write (and picture) an instruction for anyone, who has no knowledge about electronic stuff.
i was one of those greenhorns, and it took a long time reading, till i could build my lamp. then i thought, why not writing all this down, so i could help all those, who are not very much into electronic things.
after one year riding this bike-lamp (without any blackout) i'm still absolutely convinced about this solution!
even a LUPINE Edison (for about 900 EUR) is not as bright as my one.
You adjust the 20W/24° IRC-lamp to the area, straightforward your bike. the 35W/10° should be adjusted a little bit more horizontally.
On a trail, when it gets a little bit faster, you easily switch on the 35W-spot with your handlebar-remote-control.
Beside the spots, my Li-Ion-battery is still outstanding:
My new one has about 11.8Ah at 14,4V at a weight of only 1.045gr !!!
This is about 170Wh !!!
http://www-users.rwth-aachen.de/Tobi...IMG_6093_g.jpg
Tobbi's battery looks absolutely best of so far seen DIY batteries. No way to compare that to ANY lead battery. Shame on heavy batteries!
Whole lighting system is awesome. Very good looking finish. And light intensity looks to be great also!
Way to go http://www.fillarifoorumi.fi/forum/i...ons/icon14.gif
Yeah I'm really glad you did all the writing, cause I would not have probably stepped for a long time into the wonderful world of Li-Ion, if I had not read your project instructions :) So thanks again!
Yes your new battery has impressive specs, where did you get your cells from? In the beginning I bought some single cells from a user called "akkuzelle" at eBay, but some of the cells were in poor condition and I think I destroyed the rest by overheating them with a soldering iron :o
But then I learned my lesson and bought some unused BP-941 batteries, disassembled them and soldered the cells into packs of 5 really carefully. Holding the soldering iron on a cell for only less than a second, and cooling the cell right after with a cloth soaked in alcohol.
The current battery that I'm using has 1,8Ah cells. The BP-941 batteries that I used, I got from Akku-International. According to the given info about the batteries they should've had at least 2Ah cells, but I guess I was not so lucky :mad:. And the batteries were actually something like 24 euros a piece when I bought them, so not a good deal. I did try to complain about the batteries, but surprisingly this seller's english got a lot worse when some problems appeared ;). But anyway with the 1,8Ah cells there still a lot of capacity, and as you said, a weight of only about 1kg.
This really looks good. Tobby have soved couple of issues I have been wondering. For some reason I hadn't noticed MAX1665 from Maxims parametric search engine. Other circuits needs significantly more add-on components which generate a building cost. Still there is an issue of LiPo source. 18650 cells are available in many places, but good source inside EU would be nice. Within Tampere area, we could sink easyly 25pcs or even more. I tryed to promote the idea, but reception was just that we get to sell them at "Tammelan tori" (local market) to common people, if we order 50pcs :DLainaus:
Alkujaan tämän lähetti wanderer
Bilingual thread I suppose.
On Osram's website they claim the following:
Question:
Can halogen lamps also be used in the open or outdoors?
Answer:
Yes, in conjunction with suitable luminaires for outdoor use. It is usually assumed that, like PAR lamps, halogen reflector lamps with a cover glass can also be used without restrictions outdoor. This is not possible with DECOSTAR and HALOPAR lamps. The reason for this is that the cover glass of these small lamps is not completely bonded, as a certain space for the avoidance of overpressure must be present in the reflector area. This then enables the entrance of water when the lamp is subjected to the weather outdoors.
Has any of you had any issues with these lamps in wet conditions? I was planning to use these in an orienteering headlamp and it certainly will get soaked - probably not more than in MTBing though. The little I understood from Tobbi's german website he didn't use any shield on his headlights?
Nearly every DIY-lamp-builder in Germany uses the Decostar IRC.
The 24° is propably the best one for our sport. It has a very round and sharp illumination-cone with perfect size. The 10°-spot illumination-cone is not as sharp as the 24°-one.
I've been riding them for over a year now, and never got problems with them.
In really rainy conditions it might be, that some condensation water is behind the front-glas, but that is no problem.
Thanks for confirming this. I figured that the lamp will anyway become hot enough to evaporate moisture as long it doesn't break due to thermal shock.Lainaus:
Alkujaan tämän lähetti tobbi KLEIN
BTW, your site will come useful during others' projects (not least mine!) - thank you for making the effort!
Ensimmäinen proto toimii:D Siis toimii niin, että voisi lähteä koeajolle. Aiemmin se toimi verkkosähkön voimin ja se ei ole kaikkein kätevintä pyöränlampulle.
http://www.kolumbus.fi/~z606623/DIY/Lamppu/IMG_7576.png Elektroniikka istuu jäähdytysrivan välissä. Siellä on semmoiset urat suojakantta varten.
http://www.kolumbus.fi/~z606623/DIY/Lamppu/IMG_7582.jpg Tässä näkyy myös akut, jotka koeajolla oli 4x AA-NiMh 2500mAh. Laskujen ja mittausten mukaan näillä akuilla ajoaika jää ikävän lyhyeksi.
http://www.kolumbus.fi/~z606623/DIY/Lamppu/IMG_7584.jpg Valaistuskuvassa syväterävyys ei oikein riitä. En jaksanut hakea kamerajalustaa sisältä, joten käsivaralla piti tyytyä lyhyeen valotusaikaan ja sen saavutin pienellä syväterävyydellä. Kyllä tuostakin kuvasta jotain käsitystä valokuviosta saa. Citymarketin valomainos ei ole enään minun lampun valaisema. :) Täällä kaupungissa ei oiein pimeää ole.
Kehitettävää vielä jäi. Isokapasiteettinen akku tarvitaan heti alkuun. Suunnitelmat pitäisi ehtiä muuttaa toteutukseksi. LED:ien lämmöt nousee jonnekin 40 asteen paikkeille sisätiloissa, joten jäähdytys on ylimitoitettu. LED:ien virta on nyt 1.5A, mutta jos sen pudottaisi 1A, olisi kirkkaus vielä samaa tasoa, mutta sähköä kuluu oleellisesti vähemmän. Sitten voisi vielä kokeilla logic level FET:iä, jos se aukeaisi paremmin, kuin testattu BUZ11.
And for Tobby, I bet you understand as much of above text than I understand your bauteile-page.
@ troh: right, but i understand your pictures ;)
what kind of plugs are that? looks nice.
im using tamiya-plugs.
@ noble: yes, the lamps gets really hot indead.
here is an OSRAM Decostar IRC 35W/10° after 15min on a Li-Ion-battery at approx. 15V:
on the right side, the lamp-body is painted with silver-bronce.
the temperature on the surface is much higher, but the radiation-temperature becomes lower.
(temperature in degree °C)
http://si6.mtb-news.de/fotos/data/11130/35W-10.jpg
Plugs are US versions of Tamiya plug. Could I say, that they are Parma/Associated type as I got them with RC-car twenty years ago. Finally founded use to them.:rolleyes: Was worth of saving them.Lainaus:
Alkujaan tämän lähetti tobbi KLEIN
don't they work proper?
i'm thinking about using MINI-tamiya-plugs for my new projekt. what do you think about?
I don't know what you mean when talking about Mini-tamiya plug. The plug used in 1/18 RC cars (Mini-Z and similar) seems quite weak for constant high current usage. 20W @12V means something like ~1.8A which is relatively large current for mini plug. In my current application, where step up SMPS is used, battery currents are even higher.Lainaus:
Alkujaan tämän lähetti tobbi KLEIN
1/18 RC car mini plug is like this http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/233125.asp
Tamiya to mini plug adapter http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/255072.asp
I like those tamiya plugs since they are easy to operate and are polarity safe. There is also locking, so they keep attached during ride.
If contact surfaces and all cables are more than 1mm2, currents below 5 amps should not be problem
Sain paikallisen K-raudan tilaamaan noita IRC-kuuppia. Eli Osramin IRC- halogeeneja on nyt hyllyssä Vantaanportin K-raudassa (www.k-rauta.com/vantaanportti/). Hain itse muutaman, mutta hyllyyn jäi vielä jonkin verran 10 asteen lamppuja (20 ja 35 W).
here a picture of a conventional light-bulb in comparison with a OSRAM Decostar IRC:
http://si6.mtb-news.de/fotos/data/11130/IMG_3147.jpg
and here the effect of overvoltage at a common light-bulb:
http://si6.mtb-news.de/fotos/data/11...erspannung.jpg
and here, why we combine both:
as you can see, it has nothing to do anymore with your halogen lightbulb in your desk light ;)
http://si6.mtb-news.de/fotos/data/11...ombinieren.jpg
There seems to be a big difference between conventional (brand and model?) and IRC halogen. Overvoltage means much more light, we noticed this also in our tests:Lainaus:
Alkujaan tämän lähetti tobbi KLEIN
12 V: http://www.kolumbus.fi/~z606623/DIY/Lampputesti/co-tech_halogen.html
14,4 V: http://www.kolumbus.fi/~z606623/DIY/Lampputesti/IMG_0790.jpg
16 v: http://www.kolumbus.fi/~z606623/DIY/Lampputesti/IMG_0792.jpg
Of course the lifetime of the bulb will degrease with overvoltage, but how high voltages can be used before the burning time becomes too short for cycling use? It depends...
Tobbi, your setup looks great, especially the battery (voltmeter looks really cool :)). And very informative sites too.
here is a graph, which shows the dependence between overvoltage and its effect on light and live-time:
http://www-users.rwth-aachen.de/Tobi...ebensdauer.jpg
on the right side:
the upper one (which is marked red) shows the effect on overvoltage on the light efficity (in "lux/lumen)
the middle one shows the rising electric power consumption (in Ampere)
the low one shows the life-time.
as you can see:
overvoltaging with 14,4V (+20%)
causes approx +80% more light-efficity.
it needs +12% more power (ampere)
and the live-time decreases to approx 8% (-92%!!)
An OSRAM Decostar IRC runs about 5.000h 12V. This would be still 400h which is still enough for our use!
@ Tobbi: Have you got any broken IRC-bulbs with 14,8V yet?
That is very relevant question. With overvoltage, halogen gets hotter and more sensitive to vibrations. At home where bulbs are attached to concrete reiling, vibrations are not an issue, but MTB handle bar mounted halogen get regular vibrations and hits.Lainaus:
Alkujaan tämän lähetti Seagull
I was reading LiPo articles and discussions yesterdays during I was charging my new LiPo-pack. It was not relaxing due to charging system has voltage limiter that may roam a bit. It was also a first charge, so no experience about the pack. This is what google founds first when asking about lipo balancer: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=157641
Now to combine lipo balancer and MAX1666 based safety circuit would make a decent usable battery. If charger functionality is also integrated, it would be even more practical. How ever, I have so little free time, that you should not wait for tested plans to occur very soon.:rolleyes:
@ troh:
Oh, yes, an integrated balancer and protection circuit would really cool... Let us know when you get that done
I was worried also about balancing, and solved it with this charger. Of course that required, like the individual balancer circuits, to put a seperate balacing connector:
http://www.saunalahti.fi/%7Eparkkin/...kku1/kuva6.jpg
Of course the pcb does not protect while charging through this connector, but you should be prepared anyway for the possible outburst :).
Well, easyest way to do this is to use readymade and tested circuits. Just combine Tobbys safety circuit and Suzannes LiPo balancer (my previous message has the link to balancer). After combining these circuits and LiPo cells, you can charge the pack with virtually any power source. Charging is ready, when balancer circuits LEDs (all) starts to blink. Old packs refreshed by this electronics should be charged slowly at first time after update, but in future everthing should work with higher currents too. Safety circuit stops charging, when ready. Balancer takes care, that all cells are full. Then at discharge, safety circuit takes care, that discharge wont go too deep.Lainaus:
Alkujaan tämän lähetti Seagull
How ever, there is also other ways to implement the same functionality. E.g. AVR microcontroller could be utilised. If select a controller, that contains 8 channel AD (does not have to be fast) and PWM output, electornics can be implemented much more intelligent, or should I say elegant. I have not done the design yet and thus I need to use conditional words here. By having PWM output, charging can be done by flyback SMPS and get even more freedom of charging power source. Also user interface can be improved by having clear LED-blinker to indicate full charge and balancing functions. And due to LiPo:s discharge current properties, also fuel gauge could be done. This all requires little HW design and bit more SW code. I think, there exist knowledge to get microcontrollers, to do HW design and to do SW coding. The barrier comes by time. Dont start waiting yet.
Onkohan kukaan tehnyt kauppoja tämän firman kanssa?http://ledsee.com/index.php Maksutavaksi käy vain pankkisiirto ja PayPal. Muuten firma näyttää mielenkiintoiselta. Valikoimista löytyy LED:ejä, HID:ejä ja LiPo-akkuja. Creen XR-E LED:ejä ei sentään löydy.
-> voisin lähteä kimppatilaukseen mukaan, jos joku tuolta ledseestä jotain tilaa. Vois laittaa HID:n tai pari...